Impacts of waves on marine currents: Multi-scale modelling from the beach to the continental margin

The sandy coasts of Languedoc-Roussillon are a zone vulnerable to erosion and flooding. These hazards are generally associated with a combination of natural factors such as waves, wind, rising sea levels and the importance of sediment supply, and are therefore worsened during storms. For the management of such risks, a better knowledge of the hydrodynamic phenomena occuring from the surf zone through to the coastal scale is essential. This need led to the development of a numerical modelling platform consisting of the 3D ocean circulation model Symphonie, usually dedicated to regional and coastal scales, which was modified to include the wave forcing, modeled by the WaveWatch III or Swan models. Using this platform the entire littoral and coastal regions can be accurately represented. The model was tested in several academic cases. Measurements on the barred beach of Sète during the winter of 2008-2009 served to refine the model, which is able to successfully reproduce the characteristics of the currents in coastal areas, drifts or rip currents over more complex bathymetries and also the vertical profiles of currents. To validate the model on the inner-shelf, we compared the simulations with measurements taken during a winter storm in 2004 around the mouth of the Têt river, as well as during storms in 2007 and 2008 in the Gulf of Aigues-Mortes. Currents are generally well reproduced. However, the scope of wave action seems limited to a depth of 30m. The characteristics of our model allow a good reproduction of the currents at all scales and the 3D nature of the model permits a more precise calculation of the shear stress and bottom current responsible, respectively, for the suspension and advection of sediments.

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Additional Info

Field Value
Source https://theses.hal.science/tel-00680405
Author Michaud, Héloïse
Maintainer CCSD
Last Updated May 21, 2026, 20:29 (UTC)
Created May 21, 2026, 20:29 (UTC)
Identifier tel-00680405
Language fr
Rights https://about.hal.science/hal-authorisation-v1/
contributor Géosciences Montpellier ; Université des Antilles et de la Guyane (UAG)-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Université de Montpellier (UM)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)
creator Michaud, Héloïse
date 2011-12-13T00:00:00
harvest_object_id 01e0ef47-e204-4ebc-a023-f5b7bfb622ff
harvest_source_id 3374d638-d20b-4672-ba96-a23232d55657
harvest_source_title test moissonnage SELUNE
metadata_modified 2026-04-30T00:00:00
set_spec type:THESE