Mixing and bottom friction: parameterization and application to the surf zone

Wave breaking has been observed to affect the bottom boundary layer in surf zones, with potential impacts on bottom friction. The present paper investigates the impact of wave breaking on bottom friction and set-up using a recently proposed parameterization of the wave-induced turbulent kinetic energy in turbulent closure equations of the wave-averaged flow. The behavior of this parameterization is investigated by comparing phase-resolving and phase-averaged solutions. We show that the phase-averaged solution strongly overestimates turbulent kinetic energy, in a way similar to the modeling of air flow over waves. The current is correctly simulated. When applied to a realistic planar beach and after some modifications, the mixing parameterization yields the correct reproduction of the observed longshore current, with only a limited impact on wave set-up.

Data and Resources

Additional Info

Field Value
Source https://hal.science/hal-00681292
Author Bennis, Anne-Claire, Dumas, Franck, Ardhuin, Fabrice, Blanke, Bruno
Maintainer CCSD
Last Updated May 5, 2026, 13:14 (UTC)
Created May 5, 2026, 13:14 (UTC)
Identifier hal-00681292
Language en
Rights https://about.hal.science/hal-authorisation-v1/
contributor Laboratoire de physique des océans (LPO) ; Institut de Recherche pour le Développement (IRD)-Institut Français de Recherche pour l'Exploitation de la Mer (IFREMER)-Université de Brest (UBO EPE)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)
creator Bennis, Anne-Claire
date 2014-04-24T00:00:00
harvest_object_id 36b8052f-e41b-4587-933c-83c96357ad66
harvest_source_id 3374d638-d20b-4672-ba96-a23232d55657
harvest_source_title test moissonnage SELUNE
metadata_modified 2026-01-09T00:00:00
relation info:eu-repo/grantAgreement//240009/EU/Interdisciplinary Ocean Wave for Geophysical and other applications/IOWAGA
set_spec type:UNDEFINED