Landscapes of cheeses : The farmers’ perception of landscape, agricultural practices and the relations between the area of production and the PDO cheeses in the mountains of the French regions Auvergne and Franche-Comté
The objective of this PhD thesis is to analyse the role of the landscape to understand the links between cheeses with a protected designation of origin (PDO) and their area of production. This research was conducted employing a comparative approach between seven typical cheeses from mountainous areas of medium altitude in central and eastern France. We developed a multi-scale analysis,reaching from territory down to farm scale. The farm is the place where the landscape elements which are promoted to the consumers are shaped.The first hypothesis was that seemingly evident relations between landscapes and products are in fact delusive. To verify this, we analysed landscape models presented in promotional documents as well as rules in the product specifications which could have an impact on landscapes, e.g. as a consequence of applied agricultural practices. Results representative on a territorial scale show existing links but the respective underlying mechanism differs between the regions of study.Analysis at farm scale are based on a diversified conception of landscape which takes into account both concrete and symbolic dimensions. At this scale we hypothesised that farmers have a rich perception of the landscapes that influences their practices and, consequently, the presence or absence of emblematic landscape elements on their farm. To analyse these perceptions, we created a specific method of interviews which helped farmers to talk about the landscapes of their farm and about the landscape of the PDO. This method allowed us to show that several farming styles exist, which explain the different strength of links between the cheeses and their area of production.